Common problems

Common heating problems

Short cycling

Heat pump short cycling is when the system turns on and off rapidly (every few minutes) instead of completing a full heating/cooling cycle (10-20 mins), causing inefficiency, higher bills, and major strain on components like the compressor, often due to issues like a dirty air filter, low refrigerant, frozen coils, or an oversized unit, leading to premature wear and potential failure.  

Heat pump not heating

  If your heat pump isn’t heating, first check simple things: thermostat settings (set to “Heat,” temp higher than room), power (breaker), and clear the outdoor unit of debris/snow. If that fails, look for a dirty air filter, which restricts airflow, or frozen coils. More complex issues requiring a pro include low refrigerant (leaks), a bad reversing valve, or a faulty capacitor, so call a technician if basic checks don’t work. 

Outdoor unit icing up

It’s normal for a heat pump’s outdoor coil to get lightly frosted in cold, humid weather, triggering a defrost cycle to melt it; however, significant ice buildup means a problem like restricted airflow (dirty filter/blocked coil), low refrigerant, bad defrost controls (sensor, timer, relay), or a faulty reversing valve, requiring you to clear debris, check the filter, or call a pro to prevent damage. Normal Frost vs. Problem Ice 

Thermostat or control issues

Heat pump thermostat/control issues often stem from simple fixes like dead batteries, wrong settings, or dirty filters, but can also signal complex problems like faulty wiring, bad capacitors, refrigerant leaks, or a failing reversing valve, causing the system to not turn on, run constantly, short-cycle, or blow incorrect temperatures, often needing professional diagnosis for wiring, controls, or components like sensors/capacitors.  

Heat pump not cooling

 If your heat pump isn’t cooling, first check the thermostat settings (set to “Cool,” temp lower than room), clean or replace the air filter, and ensure the outdoor unit’s coils aren’t blocked or frozen; common deeper issues requiring a pro include low refrigerant (due to leaks), a bad reversing valve, tripped breakers, or a failing compressor/capacitor. Start with simple fixes, but call an HVAC technician for anything complex, as issues like low refrigerant or valve problems need professional repair.  

Stuck in defrost

A heat pump stuck in defrost often signals airflow issues (dirty filters/coils), low refrigerant, or a bad component like the defrost boardsensors (thermostat/coil), or reversing valve, preventing it from returning to heating mode. To troubleshoot, first check/clean coils and filters, then try running it in “Fan Only” mode or turning it off at the breaker for a manual defrost, but if it remains stuck, you’ll need a pro to check electronics, wiring, and refrigerant levels. Immediate Steps (Manual Defrost)c

Auxiliary heat running constantly

If your heat pump’s auxiliary (AUX) heat runs constantly, it usually means the system can’t keep up due to cold weather, a dirty filter/coilsair leaks, low refrigerant, or a malfunctioning component (like a stuck relay, bad sensor, or defrost issue), forcing backup heat to work overtime, which is costly. Check your thermostat settings (ensure it’s on “Heat,” not “Emergency Heat”), replace the air filter, and clear snow from the outdoor unit; if it persists, call a pro for issues like low refrigerant or a bad defrost board.  

"A good name is more desirable than great riches; to be esteemed is better than silver or gold".

Real Reviews from Happy HVAC Customers

Hear what our residential and commercial clients say about MR HVAC’s reliable heating, cooling, and HVAC-R services.

Mike Bayer

Justin and Kevin were great! Justin came right out for an estimate to install a tankless hot water heater. I had the estimate withing 30 minutes. Kevin was the installer, he was very knowledgeable and professional.

Ryan Inverso

Can't say enough great things about this company. Our oil boiler died just before the longest cold snap in a long time. Most companies either wouldn't touch it because its oil or were only interested in selling us a full replacement.

Mariana Wilson

After my AC (Air Conditioner) unit broke down this summer, I reached out to Mr. HVAC. Justin, Service/Install Supervisor, reached out to me to schedule an in-home consultation. He arrived on time.

Hope Shen

Kevin and Mason replaced my HVAC system and water heater to a tankless. They were courteous, professional, quick, and did a great job!

We diagnose heating problems the right way — inspect, measure, verify — so you get fixes that hold.

Inspect (Visual & Initial Check)

Airflow: Check/replace dirty filters, inspect evaporator/condenser coils for dirt, look for debris around outdoor units, and examine ductwork for damage or leaks.

Components: Inspect electrical connections, wiring, safety controls (limit switches), condensate pans/lines, and the overall condition of the furnace, compressor, and fan.

Measure (Quantitative Data)

Electrical: Measure amp draw for motors, check voltage, and test continuity.

Performance: Measure temperature rise (furnace) or temperature drop (AC) across coils, check refrigerant pressures (superheat/subcooling).

Airflow: Measure static pressure and air velocity (CFM) to assess duct system performance.

Verify (Confirming Operation & Safety)

Safety: Confirm safety switches (high/low pressure, limit), gas connections for leaks, and proper exhaust venting.

Controls: Test thermostat operation, control board, and proper cycling of components.

Performance: Ensure the system meets designed specifications (e.g., proper heating/cooling output, humidity control) and document findings for the homeowner. 

We provide on-site Air Conditioning Repair Services in Harrison, Arkansas and surrounding North Arkansas and South Missouri communities. 

HousecAll Pro
Use our secure online system to request Residential or Commercial HVAC, Commercial Refrigeration, or Ice Machine service. Once submitted, we’ll review your request and follow up to schedule.